This is another one of those books that make you think about what you buy at the grocery store. Ultra processed foods (UPF) have become ubiquitous in our food stores. What is a UPF you ask? It is a food that generally comes in a lot of plastic packaging and it has an ingredient list that includes things that you don't have in your kitchen (and you may not even have any idea what they are). One researcher refers to them as “industrially produced edible substances.” Another calls them “pre-chewed" as they slip down our throats so fast and easily.
The author actually encourages you to keep eating UPF while you read the book, but it becomes increasingly difficult to do as you proceed. I found myself heading for the fruit bowl for a juicy peach and reveling in the natural flavour. That's not always my go to snack, however. I don't have a sweet tooth, but I lurve salty snacks—chips, cheezies, popcorn, crackers, rice cakes, pretzels. Carbohydrates and salt. Even better if there's some fat involved, butter on popcorn or dip for the chips. But now that I have multiple health issues, I make sure I eat enough healthy food before I head to the grocery store and I avoid the junk food aisle. You can't eat it if you don't buy it.
”The basic construction materials of UPF are industrially modified carbs, fats, and proteins, and the processes they are put through remove almost all of the chemical complexity. The intensity of ultra-processing means that vitamins are destroyed, fibre is reduced, and there's a loss of functional molecules like polyphenols. The result is lots of calories but very little other nutrition. …Those thousands of chemicals [lost] bring health benefits, but they also bring flavour. And so, when they're stripped out, flavouring must be added back in. But this added flavour won't contain any of the lost nutrients that it should signal.”
I recently consulted a dietitian, who recommended that I switch out my fat-free coffee creamer with milk. I was resistant to the idea until I read the ingredient list on the creamer this morning. Now I'm having difficulty enjoying my morning coffee. I was somewhat relieved to see that my preferred spaghetti sauce (for those days when I'm not willing to cook) has only two additives, but I was dismayed by the contents of my favourite cottage cheese. We all have to decide how much and how many UPF we are willing to consume. It's a definite advantage to be interested in cooking. I have to confess that, as a gluten free eater, I was horrified at what van Tulleken wrote about xanthan gum, a key component of GF baked goods. I have a jar of it in my baking cupboard. Microbial slime is not really something I want in my muffins! I think I must get tested for celiac disease to see if I can reintegrate wheat products into my diet.
As disturbing as I found this book, I'm glad that I read it. If you find this book useful, I would recommend The Dorito Effect: The Surprising New Truth About Food and Flavor. It also deals largely with processed food as well as the connections between flavour and nutrition. If you're particularly interested in the care and feeding of your microbiome, I would suggest Fiber Fueled: The Plant-Based Gut Health Program for Losing Weight, Restoring Your Health, and Optimizing Your Microbiome as well. Don't beat yourself up if you continue to consume UPF but , like me, you may hear Fernanda Rauber whispering in the back of your mind, “It's not food, it's an industrially produced edible substance.”
